Beer Review: Shiner Family Pack

 

 

Shiner beer, made by Spoetzl Brewery in shiner, Texas, can be found just about anywhere. Perhaps that's the reason I tend to shy away from it. I prefer to try the new and/or unusual, and not only has Shiner been around for over a century, its beers are simple, clean-tasting crowd pleasers. 

That said, I've always been drawn to the "Shiner Family Pack." That cute goat on the packaging calls to me (currently, Shiner's most recognizable beer is its Bock, a style often associated with a goat), inviting me to try its friends, enticing the beer judge in me with the opportunity to compare and contrast. 

And so, I finally gave in one evening after work, easily locating the happy family  at the supermarket across the street. "There goes the last one! People love those things!" a store employee grinned, as I lifted the pack from the shelf. 

Shiner is a great brand for "beer beginners." Its beers are consistently light, yet refined, easy and enjoyable down the hatch. Its history, which reads like a John Steinbeck ode to Texas immigrants, also warrants it a big badge of pride. 

Here's what I thought of Mr. Bock and his friends:
 

 

Shiner Premium Lager: not quite "premium," in that its flavor is so clean and its bitterness is so low, that it almost tastes like mountain spring seltzer, until a bit of cracker-like malt enters into the finish. Not that less taste is always a bad thing, considering the putrid flavor of the light lagers big beer companies mass produce. Nice and spritzy, with a noble hop perfume and a slight unexpected creaminess to the mouthfeel.  

 

Shiner Kosmos Reserve: Named after Kosmos Spoetzl, the business' original master brewer, this is another Premium Lager. It has slightly more flavor than Shiner Premium, revealing both caramel and toasted malt, as well as some spicy hops. As a whole, however, the taste is still quite light, and the "extras" in this recipe almost feel like a letdown, a promise of something more to come that only fades away in a watery finish. 

 

Shiner Bock: a more delicate version of this long-standing German beer style, Shiner's take incorporates the traditional well attenuated taste with its light bitterness and slightly sweet finish. Less traditional is the lack of malt complexity--like all Shiner beers, this Bock is simple and sessionable. Its easygoing nature is aided by a lighter body than other examples of the style. 

 

Shiner Prickly Pear: I'm not generally one for fruit infusion, so I was surprised by how much I liked this one! Spoetzl didn't overdo it with the sweetness at all--there was just enough pear in there to give the beer a special kick. Mild hop bitterness did an excellent job at balancing out the overall flavor. In keeping with the Shiner trend, this is a crisp, refreshing, can't-go-wrong crowd pleaser. 

 
Shiner Bohemian Black Lager: here's where the disappointment started to creep in. Black Lagers, also called Schwarzbiers, are by no means dense, flavor packed ales. They're still lagers, after all. But Shiner's  Schwarzbier had a much thinner flavor profile than I was expecting, with more of a dirty charcoal taste than that of roasted malt. Its slightly bigger body and toned down carbonation made it less refreshing than its family members. In the end, it wasn't quite pond water, but it wasn't anything I'd try again. 

 

Shiner Wild Hare Pale Ale: This is a fairly new beer for Shiner, so I'm assuming it replaced a family pack usual. Its bouquet was faint, but what I did pick up on was fairly unusual: a jumble of tropical fruit, a squeeze of caramel, and a pinch of earthy hops. All these were present in the taste, and were somewhat balanced by toasty malt and moderate hop bitterness. The bitterness was surprisingly strong for a Shiner beer, as it was accentuated which by strong carbonation and a subtle mineral quality. The elements to this brew didn't quite fit together for me. I think a bit more hop flavor would help to bridge the sweet and the bitter. 

Of the bunch, I'd give the blue ribbon to the Premium, simply because its attenuation is so masterfully done that the result is possibly the most "easy drinker" I've tried to date. It's a light lager few, if any, would wrinkle their nose at, and to me, that's a big achievement. Second place in my book goes to the Prickly Pear for impressing me with its zesty balance, while third goes to good ol' Shiner Bock. It may be simple, but it's simply good. 

Beer Review: Chimay Trappist Ales

 

Publicly reviewing Chimay's Trappist trio is a little nerve wracking--not only are these beers bestowed with the prestigious Trappist badge (click here for the Trappist beer lowdown), their wide distribution make them three of the most famous ales out there. Critiquing the quality of Chimay's brews feels a little like critiquing the quality of Whitney Houston's voice. Fortunately, beer reviewers are able to go somewhat unscathed due to an ideology of subjectivity--in general, the beer community respects and maintains the notion that because everyone's palate is different, there is no right or wrong level at which to rank a beer, as long as you are holding it to a set of appropriate standards.

 And so, I figured it would be interesting to post my unique perception of the famous Chimay trio, and then see if I could ascertain the level at which other beer enthusiasts agree. Since it feels a little too sacrilegious to score these beers using the same rubric I'd use for scoring homebrew entries, I am instead utilizing BeerAdvocate's simple 5-star system. This way, it's also easier to compare my ratings to those of the non-beer judge ranks.


Chimay Premiere (Red)
Style: Dubbel
Total Score: 3.8/5

Appearance: A hazy lava lamp of dark caramel. The head is thin, off-white, and frothy, and leaves no lacing to speak of. This could, however, be due to a less than spotless glass. 3.25/5

Aroma: Decidedly malt-forward, the aroma first presents itself as newly baked cinnamon raisin bread, then reveals additional light and dark esters and melanoidins--apple cider and dates, toffee and brown sugar. There is good complexity here, but also some disappointment: The bouquet fainter than one would expect from a beer of this size, and the style's usual kick is taken down a few notches by a lack of spicy phenols. 3.75/5

Flavor: The apple cider from the aroma is made a bit more tart in the taste, as if it were topped with a dollop of apricot jam. Toasted bread crusts balance the sweetness, as does a notable hop bitterness. There is no hop flavor, and while this is acceptable for the style, in this case, it could provide some desirable complexity. The overall flavor profile seems muted, as if additional layers once ripe for the tasting have been stomped out. And yet, the taste remains nice and round; reasonably diverse, and very well-balanced. 3.75/5

Mouthfeel: High Carbonation and moderate alcohol warming combine to create a faint sizzling on the sides of the tongue. Moderate dryness overlays a smooth and creamy body, creating a full, yet refreshing mouthfeel that would be well equipped to support a bigger flavor profile than what's presented. Warming settles in the stomach, providing a satisfying sensation. 4.5/5

Overall: Sharper, yet less flavorful than Cinq Cent, and quieter than Grande Reserve, on every level. The flavor potential bubbling beneath the surface seems to miss its cue and tries to come out through the mouthfeel. While there is quality to be appreciated, the vigor normally attributed to this style is lacking. 3.75/5

Chimay Cinq Cent (White)
Style: Tripel
Total Score: 4.43/5

Appearance: Bright golden honey in color. Moderate cloudiness suggests a bigger body, but the white head, while tall, is light and soapy. Another not so clean glass, perhaps? 3.75/5

Aroma: Sugary caramel is sharpened by orange marmalade and a sprinkling of cloves. Some tropical fruit, and even a bit of bubblegum ups the sweetness ante as the drinking commences, but this quality is bridled by an undercurrent of bready malt and earthy hops. It is a well balanced, yet multilayered concoction, and smells artistically delicious. 4.5/5

Flavor: Toffee melanoidins are soft, yet immediate, and are joined by toasted nuts sprinkled with brown sugar, and a whisper of milk chocolate. A bit of bubblegum and banana bread pay homage to the Hefeweizen, but a mild bitterness from a rustic, yet refined mixture of noble hops keeps the taste true to the Tripel style, as does the flavor of ripe oranges and apricots. The overall sweetness is further tempered by grainy malt, which does an excellent job at blending the beer's potentially discordant elements. 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Smooth, yet a bit viscous, with moderate carbonation helping to create a delicately dry finish. The alcohol warming is but a whisper, which seems appropriate for the beer's sweet and bright flavor profile. 4.75/5

Overall: Perhaps more of a masterpiece than its stronger sisters in that its balance couldn't be better and that its full flavor is neither dried out by hops and/or carbonation, nor drowned out by alcohol. This beer is soft, sweet, spicy, and hearty, and because no one element outshines the rest, its many qualities can be easily appreciated. 4.5/5


Chimay Grand Reserve (Blue)
Style: Strong Dark Belgian Ale
Total Score: 4.28/5

Appearance: A fluffy gold crown rests atop a churning haze of dark honey. You can practically see the viscosity of this famously "big" beer, which in true Belgian style, leaves the glass covered in lace. 3.75/5

Smell: Brings to mind the song "Elegantly Wasted." The potent scent is very much like a strong champagne cocktail. It is boozy yet bright, with a balanced cornucopia of both dark and light orchard fruit--dates, apricots, cherries, pears. Some oaky notes add to the alcoholic richness, and as the beer warms, it reveals some luxurious accessories in the form of rosemary, cloves, and cinnamon. 4.5/5

Taste: The initial taste is of tart golden apple cider topped off with a splash of bitters, but sweet and tangy apricot marmalade quickly takes over and sticks around through the finish like honey. Caramel and brown sugar are curbed by a slightly harsh cherry cordial flavor. There are many strong competitors here, including a bell pepper taste associated with young red wine, but the malty flavor of freshly baked bread soaks them up in such a way that they are kept at a reasonable volume. 4.25/5

Mouthfeel: A satiny mouthfeel is clipped by an impactful dryness and sharp carbonation. The alcohol is so apparent in the taste, that it is less apparent on the throat and tongue. 4.25/5

Overall: This beer is all about juxtaposition, with clashing characteristics rising to such an intensity that they are on the verge of not quite blending. And yet, blend they do, when all is said and done. Chimay Grand Reserve is like a couture gown. It makes you cock your head and go, "huh?" for a second, but then all you can hope to do is marvel at its extravagant beauty. 4.25/5

Further Analysis:

I've always been quite surprised by how much I prefer Chimay's White and Blue beers to its Red. I actually tried the Red again right before writing this article, to see whether my palate had changed. But no, I still find Chimay Red to be atypically faint, both for the Dubbel style, and for the Chimay brand in general. A Dubbel is typically less complex than a Tripel or a Strong Dark Belgian Ale, but it should still have a bit more "oomph" in my opinion. Others seem to deviate less in their Chimay rankings. BeerAdvocate users, who are, as a whole, a less aggressively discerning than I, give Chimay Red, White, and Blue, average scores of 4.65, 4.6, and 4.8, respectively. Their least favorite is my most favorite, although they still deem it worthy of a higher score. I tend to be conservative in my BeerAdvocate scoring because I plan to forever be in search of that perfect beer. Once I find it, you see, what's the point of looking anymore?

RateBeer doesn't hesitate to hand out perfect scores--it gives Chimay Grande Reserve a big fat 100, agreeing with BeerAdvocate users that the blue beer deserves the blue ribbon. Meanwhile, the other two each receive a 99 from the oft-referenced website. What keeps them from garnering that extra one point cannot be inferred from their descriptions.

I guess the lesson learned here is, once again, that palates sure are subjective. I learned more about my own tastes than the tastes of others--confirming my scrupulous nature as a beer drinker, as well as my preference for both balance and complexity. For me, Chimay Premiere isn't quite complex enough, Chimay Grande Reserve isn't quite balanced enough, and Chimay Cinq Cent is juuuust right!

 

My Gluten Free Beer Experience

Not long ago, I was strongly advised, for medicinal purposes, to cut gluten out of my diet for at least a month. My first thought:

"But, but, I'm a beer judge!"

Needless to say, this is hardly a valid excuse when it comes to one's health. Plus, truth be told, I wasn't scheduled to judge any competitions until late February. Still, the concept of putting my passion aside for thirty days at minimum had me feeling pretty pouty.

But then, I remembered! I remembered all those times at Whole Foods near my work in NYC when I would pick up a beer I'd never tried before, thinking, "Hm, this looks interesting," before spotting the words "GLUTEN FREE" on the label and consequently shoving it back on the shelf. Like  "Atkins" and "No Yolk," to me, those words meant, "better because it tastes bad." 

Now, however, "gluten free" was a golden ticket! I must passed up so many gluten free beers. I was sure to find some at the Beer & Wine Emporium near my home in Jersey, right? Wrong. 

 

"I should have returned to Whole Foods," I thought, as I stared down my only option. It was a six pack of New Grist from Lakefront Brewery, and what I found troublesome was that the packaging described this beverage as a "Pilsner Style Beer." 

 

Now, to each her own, but I'm not a Pilsner fan. At all. I'm a "big beer" gal. I like lots of hops, esters, and/or melanoidins. I like crazy flavors and complexity. Pilsners are usually described as being "simple" and "clean." I'll tell you a secret: I'm neither of those things. 

 

As you've likely assumed all along, I went ahead and bought that beer, my rationale being, "Well, I came five whole minutes out of my way to get here!" 

 

Perhaps it's a good thing that my rationale is not always so rational, because New Grost turned out to be my favorite type of beer: the "unlike-anything-I've-had-before-and-I-mean-that-in-a-good-way" type. It was the clearest beer I'd ever seen, with huge carbonation bubbles zooming to the top. The color was a light, bright gold. Altogether, it looked like a more vibrant glass of champagne with a bubble bath head. 

 

"It looks like champagne," I told my uninterested spouse. I took a whiff. "Oh my god, that's so funny! It smells like champagne, too!" Never had I ever had a Pilsner that smelled like champagne. The beer judge side of me would have normally scoffed about it "not being to style," but in this case, I was more than happy to smell something unexpected. 

 

In many ways, the beer was clean and simple. Its taste was light, with more flavor in the dry finish. Likewise, the body was smooth as water initially, but once swallowed, it became crisp, fizzy, and unbelievably refreshing. It had a sort of mellow tartness to it, like a spritz of dried apricot. It felt more like a cider than a beer, actually, and I was delightfully intrigued. 

 

I'd drink this even if I didn't have to stay away from gluten. Honestly, I would. 

 

So how does one make gluten free beer? Well, Lakefront Brewery led the way by using rice and sorghum instead of wheat or barley. New Grist was the first beer available for those on a gluten free diet, and now there are many other options available. That's good news for beer lovers with celiac disease, but not necessarily good news for me at the moment: I just found out that the temporary diet I've been put on calls for me to cut out yeast, as well. 

 

D'oh!

Beer Review: Twenty One by Avery Brewing Co.

Avery Brewing Company in Colorado makes my favorite Imperial IPA, Maharaja. It's not the easiest beer to find on the shelves, so I was stoked to find a bottle the other day at the Beer & Wine Emporium in NJ. And I was even more stoked to find this newcomer sitting next to it: Avery's 21st Anniversary Ale, aptly named Twenty One.

As a Maharaja fan, I was pleased to read that Avery describes Twenty One as "an Imperial India-Style Brown Ale." I pictured Maharaja, but with a darker side. And that is just what I tasted. Below is my review of Twenty One. It's the same review I put up on Beer Advocate, but instead of using Beer Advocate scoring, I scored it according to BJCP judging guidelines, as if I were evaluating it at a competition (I happen to be a certified beer judge).

Appearance: When held to natural light, clarity, a frenzy of carbonation, and garnet highlights are visible, but the dark mahogany color of this beer makes it otherwise look opaque. The beige head is pleasantly thick and creamy. 3/3

Aroma: Caramel sweetness is nicely balanced by toasted malt and a generous helping of resinous, citrus, and herbal hops. Gentle notes of medium roast coffee and milk chocolate waft in from the background. 9/12

Flavor: Roasted malt serves as the foundation for much brighter flavors. The taste matches the aroma--a complex, yet well balanced spread of butterscotch, brown sugar, tropical fruit, and plenty of zesty C-hops. I'd call it a roasty Imperial IPA, a style of beer that could become a fast favorite of mine if made with this level of panache. Avery Brewing Co. refers to this beer as an "imperial-India Style Brown Ale," and the taste tells me they've met their goal. 18/20

Mouthfeel: Creamy, yet medium-bodied, this is a sipper that's not too heavy. Moderate carbonation and a smooth finish help the wonderfully complex flavors to shine. 5/5

Overall: Avery makes my favorite Imperial IPA , Maharaja, and this anniversary beer is just as good...actually, it's better. It's very similar to the Maharaja, but with some hearty toastiness that brings more balance to the sweet and tangy, and also makes it perfect for colder weather or a cozy indoor evening. Ready to buy another bottle! 8/10

Total Score: 43/50

For more of my beer advocate reviews (there are 125 to date), click here.