Publicly reviewing Chimay's Trappist trio is a little nerve wracking--not only are these beers bestowed with the prestigious Trappist badge (click here for the Trappist beer lowdown), their wide distribution make them three of the most famous ales out there. Critiquing the quality of Chimay's brews feels a little like critiquing the quality of Whitney Houston's voice. Fortunately, beer reviewers are able to go somewhat unscathed due to an ideology of subjectivity--in general, the beer community respects and maintains the notion that because everyone's palate is different, there is no right or wrong level at which to rank a beer, as long as you are holding it to a set of appropriate standards.
And so, I figured it would be interesting to post my unique perception of the famous Chimay trio, and then see if I could ascertain the level at which other beer enthusiasts agree. Since it feels a little too sacrilegious to score these beers using the same rubric I'd use for scoring homebrew entries, I am instead utilizing BeerAdvocate's simple 5-star system. This way, it's also easier to compare my ratings to those of the non-beer judge ranks.
Chimay Premiere (Red)
Style: Dubbel
Total Score: 3.8/5
Aroma: Decidedly malt-forward, the aroma first presents itself as newly baked cinnamon raisin bread, then reveals additional light and dark esters and melanoidins--apple cider and dates, toffee and brown sugar. There is good complexity here, but also some disappointment: The bouquet fainter than one would expect from a beer of this size, and the style's usual kick is taken down a few notches by a lack of spicy phenols. 3.75/5
Flavor: The apple cider from the aroma is made a bit more tart in the taste, as if it were topped with a dollop of apricot jam. Toasted bread crusts balance the sweetness, as does a notable hop bitterness. There is no hop flavor, and while this is acceptable for the style, in this case, it could provide some desirable complexity. The overall flavor profile seems muted, as if additional layers once ripe for the tasting have been stomped out. And yet, the taste remains nice and round; reasonably diverse, and very well-balanced. 3.75/5
Mouthfeel: High Carbonation and moderate alcohol warming combine to create a faint sizzling on the sides of the tongue. Moderate dryness overlays a smooth and creamy body, creating a full, yet refreshing mouthfeel that would be well equipped to support a bigger flavor profile than what's presented. Warming settles in the stomach, providing a satisfying sensation. 4.5/5
Overall: Sharper, yet less flavorful than Cinq Cent, and quieter than Grande Reserve, on every level. The flavor potential bubbling beneath the surface seems to miss its cue and tries to come out through the mouthfeel. While there is quality to be appreciated, the vigor normally attributed to this style is lacking. 3.75/5
Chimay Cinq Cent (White)
Style: Tripel
Total Score: 4.43/5
Appearance: Bright golden honey in color. Moderate cloudiness suggests a bigger body, but the white head, while tall, is light and soapy. Another not so clean glass, perhaps? 3.75/5
Style: Tripel
Total Score: 4.43/5
Aroma: Sugary caramel is sharpened by orange marmalade and a sprinkling of cloves. Some tropical fruit, and even a bit of bubblegum ups the sweetness ante as the drinking commences, but this quality is bridled by an undercurrent of bready malt and earthy hops. It is a well balanced, yet multilayered concoction, and smells artistically delicious. 4.5/5
Flavor: Toffee melanoidins are soft, yet immediate, and are joined by toasted nuts sprinkled with brown sugar, and a whisper of milk chocolate. A bit of bubblegum and banana bread pay homage to the Hefeweizen, but a mild bitterness from a rustic, yet refined mixture of noble hops keeps the taste true to the Tripel style, as does the flavor of ripe oranges and apricots. The overall sweetness is further tempered by grainy malt, which does an excellent job at blending the beer's potentially discordant elements. 4.5/5
Mouthfeel: Smooth, yet a bit viscous, with moderate carbonation helping to create a delicately dry finish. The alcohol warming is but a whisper, which seems appropriate for the beer's sweet and bright flavor profile. 4.75/5
Chimay Grand Reserve (Blue)
Style: Strong Dark Belgian Ale
Total Score: 4.28/5
Smell: Brings to mind the song "Elegantly Wasted." The potent scent is very much like a strong champagne cocktail. It is boozy yet bright, with a balanced cornucopia of both dark and light orchard fruit--dates, apricots, cherries, pears. Some oaky notes add to the alcoholic richness, and as the beer warms, it reveals some luxurious accessories in the form of rosemary, cloves, and cinnamon. 4.5/5
Taste: The initial taste is of tart golden apple cider topped off with a splash of bitters, but sweet and tangy apricot marmalade quickly takes over and sticks around through the finish like honey. Caramel and brown sugar are curbed by a slightly harsh cherry cordial flavor. There are many strong competitors here, including a bell pepper taste associated with young red wine, but the malty flavor of freshly baked bread soaks them up in such a way that they are kept at a reasonable volume. 4.25/5
Mouthfeel: A satiny mouthfeel is clipped by an impactful dryness and sharp carbonation. The alcohol is so apparent in the taste, that it is less apparent on the throat and tongue. 4.25/5
Overall: This beer is all about juxtaposition, with clashing characteristics rising to such an intensity that they are on the verge of not quite blending. And yet, blend they do, when all is said and done. Chimay Grand Reserve is like a couture gown. It makes you cock your head and go, "huh?" for a second, but then all you can hope to do is marvel at its extravagant beauty. 4.25/5
Further Analysis:
I've always been quite surprised by how much I prefer Chimay's White and Blue beers to its Red. I actually tried the Red again right before writing this article, to see whether my palate had changed. But no, I still find Chimay Red to be atypically faint, both for the Dubbel style, and for the Chimay brand in general. A Dubbel is typically less complex than a Tripel or a Strong Dark Belgian Ale, but it should still have a bit more "oomph" in my opinion. Others seem to deviate less in their Chimay rankings. BeerAdvocate users, who are, as a whole, a less aggressively discerning than I, give Chimay Red, White, and Blue, average scores of 4.65, 4.6, and 4.8, respectively. Their least favorite is my most favorite, although they still deem it worthy of a higher score. I tend to be conservative in my BeerAdvocate scoring because I plan to forever be in search of that perfect beer. Once I find it, you see, what's the point of looking anymore?
RateBeer doesn't hesitate to hand out perfect scores--it gives Chimay Grande Reserve a big fat 100, agreeing with BeerAdvocate users that the blue beer deserves the blue ribbon. Meanwhile, the other two each receive a 99 from the oft-referenced website. What keeps them from garnering that extra one point cannot be inferred from their descriptions.
I guess the lesson learned here is, once again, that palates sure are subjective. I learned more about my own tastes than the tastes of others--confirming my scrupulous nature as a beer drinker, as well as my preference for both balance and complexity. For me, Chimay Premiere isn't quite complex enough, Chimay Grande Reserve isn't quite balanced enough, and Chimay Cinq Cent is juuuust right!
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